Thursday, October 16, 2008

Goodnight Saigon

We have been in Vietnam since Monday (and right now, it is Thursday evening). So far - so good! Our first stop was Ho Chi Minh City, which we have learned the locals still call Saigon. To be honest, I thought it would be too crazy for me - and that I wouldn't enjoy it. But, I was totally wrong. Saigon is so interesting... it is it's own beast. I almost can't even explain it. It is crazy but so simple at the same time. It has a certain rhythm to it. The little stores and shops - at least in the backpacker area where we stayed - were so run down and so close the the street. It seems like one monsoon would make the roofs come crashing in! The kids play barefoot on the sidewalk. People have little "restaurants" on the sidewalks and in the streets. Basically, a woman squats on the ground, cooking on little grills - meats and huge vats of rice etc. Then, they set up tiny little plastic stools in the street - smaller than what nursery school kids sit on - and people just sit in the street at eat at the "restaurants."
Its so different from what we know.
Also - we didn't see ONE chain restaurant...no Starbucks. No McDonalds. That was nice.

The motorcycles are EVERYWHERE! It is not uncommon to see families of 3 or 4 on these motorcycles - including little babies! Seriously, I had heard crossing the street in Vietnam was a challenge - but in fact, it's an Olympic sport. Basically, you just have to GO- just charge through...and not worry about the fact that 3 taxis and 20 motorcycles are coming straight for you. You just have to trust that they will drive around you. There is NO such thing as pedestrian right of way! In fact, if they see people - they just beep. Beep beep beep! The horn means something totally different here than it does in the USA. Passing someone on the highway? beep beep! See someone walking on the side of the road as you are driving? Beep beep!

I can't believe that over 3 1/2 weeks have passed by. I am having so much fun - but the whole trip is flying by way too quickly. I think it is perfect that we started out somewhere expensive (Japan) and now are in the cheap areas. Hanging out in Vietnam is SO affordable. We eat lunch for around $3. Beers are around $1. A HUGE bottle of water (1.5 liters) is usually around $0.30. The largest bill they have here is 100,000 dong which is equal to about $6. We are millionaires! One night, we decided to go all out to a fancy restaurant. We had three main courses, beers, tea, dessert...the whole thing was $26. Total. Amazing.

One day, we took a ($10) day trip into the Mekong Delta. We had a tour guide who took us on numerous boat rides, to candy factories, a honey making and bee-keeping farm, on a horse drawn buggy (if you can call it that), through little villages... it was really neat. As always, we met some really interesting people traveling - this time from Japan, Germany, Seattle, and Taiwan.

Since we have been in city after city on this trip - we have been looking forward to getting back to nature. This morning we hopped on a quick flight north to Da Lat. The ride from the airport to the hotel was absolutely breathtaking. Talk about LUSH green trees, fields, and mountains. this is where most of the delicious Vietnamese coffee comes from as well. Amazing. We were so happy - this was exactly what we needed. Or so we thought. Unfortunately - we aren't as remote as we thought we would be. We took this amazing ride through the green areas in the middle of nowhere - then went over the top of one mountain - and suddenly this city appears! It was like Brigadoon!

Our hotel is in this city. It's disappointing, but apparently - there isn't really anywhere to stay that isn't in the city of Da Lat. So...tomorrow - I'm facing my fears and going on a guided MOTORCYCLE tour around the mountains and to go hike, see waterfalls etc. I will not be driving the motorcycle. We have hired one of the famous "Easy Riders" to tour us around. I'm nervous but quite excited. This is one of those once in a life-time experiences that I felt I had to do. Right? Right.

So far my favorite thing about Vietnam has been the people. They have been warm and wonderful. We stayed at a place called the Saigon Mini Hotel - and the staff couldn't have been more wonderful. I would recommend anyone to stay there.

I am at the point where I have been away from home for so long, that I start thinking about anything that I will change when I get back. "When I get back to real life, i'm going to eat better." "When I get back to real life, I am going to take a class or two." It is true, though, that traveling has made me want to learn again. Maybe I'll take an adult ed class or something.

One difficult experience i had in Vietnam was my exploration of the War Remnants Museum. I went by myself. And, yes I knew it wouldn't be pleasant. And this might sound extreme - but I felt like I was the daughter of a Nazi...walking around a Holocaust museum. The exhibits were horrifying. America sounded like the worst place - with the worst people - in the world... I couldn't even look at a lot of the stuff on Agent Orange etc. I started to enjoy the exhibit more, however, in the exhibits about worldwide opposition to the Vietnam War. It showed protesters in Australia with "USA out of Vietnam NOW" posters. And, European countries with similar displays. I kept looking for the Americans...where is our voice? Where are our protesters? Finally, i found it - a section where you saw the brave men and women who protested the war. Photos of people burning draft cards; an article about a fighter pilot who refused to fly etc etc. I finally felt ok.

My favorite part of the museum was an exhibit all about the photographers recording the war, who lost their lives while doing so. Their photography was amazing and so much more special knowing their personal stories.

We will hopefully post pictures of all of this soon. Tucker's camera is facing some serious technical difficulties but we are making do with mine for the time being.

More updates to come. Wish me luck on my motorcycle!? omg.

5 comments:

Unknown said...

Anxiously awaiting the pics of Vietnam!

Your experience at the museum sounds about what I'd expect, and I'm proud of you for going in. Not sure if you've been to Hawaii, but when I went there to the Pearl Harbor museum, there were many, many Japanese tourists there, and they all seemed very respectful and there was a great deal of sorrow I could feel as well.

I think gestures like this are helpful in healing and moving forward, so the fact that you went in, I'm sure that Vietnamese citizens who saw you there, it probably made an impact on them. It's also good to keep in perspective that we don't live in some perfectly just and admirable nation. We've committed terrible acts in history, and as americans if we're to become better we need to face them. Again I'm wicked proud of you for doing just that.

I also think it says something to the spirit of the Vietnamese people that, as you noted, they are so warm and friendly to you as american tourists.

Also, your Brigadoon joke killed me.

Also also, my favorite restaurant in Worcester (where Tucker and I went a-colleging) was a vietnamese place named Da-Lat!!!

Raero said...

Ha ha Pope, I'm so glad you got the Brigadoon reference. :) And thank you so much for the sweet comments.

Unknown said...

This was a very moving post. What an experience you are having.

Jill said...

I have never heard this perspective before, thanks so much for sharing it.

Unknown said...

I was in that museum this summer. Pretty brutal realities exhibited in there, albeit rather one-sided ones. Don't forget that the US military was invited in by the Southern Vietnamese. "A rifle in one hand, a plow in the other" also means that anyone is a suspect.

In no way do I mean to belittle the atrocities of war, but before you get too down on your compatriots or the people who fought the war, remember that "He who controls the present, controls the past."

After I visited Vietnam I went to Berlin and read all about the wall and separation and all that. It was rather enlightening about the motivation for "containment".